My Personal Stylist

Last time we looked at the first 2 steps to spending less and wearing more of your wardrobe: 1) Review and 2) Repair/Revamp (click here to read Part 1). Now we take a look at the last 2 steps, removing those items that no longer work for you and replacing them with those that do.

Before you can add new things you need to take a serious and unemotional look at your wardrobe. I can guarantee there will be items that need to go, and there’s now time like now to do it!

3. RETIRE

Typically never worn, never will be, irretrievably dated, deteriorated or stained beyond redemption, or you just don’t look or feel good in it (now is the time to be disciplined and brutally honest with yourself). Take action and retire it… you’ll feel relieved (and perhaps your friends/partner/family will thank you for it).

Options for retired clothes:

• If its corporate wear and in good condition and relatively new, consider donating it to Dress for Success, a non-profit organisation established to promote the economic independence of disadvantaged women. Each Dress for Success client receives one suit when she has a job interview and additional apparel—up to a week’s worth of clothing—when she becomes employed. Visit Dress for Success for more information.
• If its just old but still in good condition, consider donating it to a local charity centre.
• If it’s beyond redemption, burn it, bin it or use it as a cleaning cloth. But whatever you do, remove it from your wardrobe immediately!

4. REINVEST

Now, it’s almost time to shop, but only after you’ve decided what to Retain, Repair, Revamp or Retire. Know which gaps you’re filling and why.

First you need to do a little homework:

1. From your current clothes, see how many separate outfits you can create by mixing and matching coats/jackets/knitwear with different skirts/pants/dresses and shoes/bags/belts. Add jewellery and/or scarves to dress things up or down. Try the same outfit but different shoes eg heels, flats, boots.
2. Make a list or those specific items you need to fill the gaps in your existing wardrobe and to extend the number of combinations you can create. If you’ve found a style that really works for you, consider buying the same piece (or separates) in a few different colours so you can mix and match more easily.
3. Prioritise your list and create a budget. Break your list into essentials and ‘nice to haves’. You don’t have to do all your reinvesting at once. Work out what you absolutely need now and what can be put off until later. You never know, by the time you get to the “put off until later” items you may even get them on sale.

Now you can shop. Buy only what is on your list, because you know it will work in your new and improved wardrobe.

You’ve spent good money on getting your wardrobe organised, so be disciplined when it comes to reinvesting.

• If it’s not perfect for your body shape/colouring/lifestyle, don’t buy it.
• If it doesn’t work with at least three other items in your current wardrobe, don’t buy it.
• If you don’t really need it, don’t buy it!

If all this sounds too hard, enlist some professional help. Find a good stylist who will give you an unbiased opinion and will show you how best to maximise what you love and minimise what you don’t.

If you’ve ever flung open the doors of your wardrobe and thought “Grrrrrr…I have a wardrobe full of clothes and nothing to wear”, then this is for you. With all the wonderful new fashions in store you might be tempted to rush out and restock your wardrobe, but before you give the cards a workout consider this: an organised wardrobe is a manageable wardrobe. You will spend less time getting ready each day and you will know just what to wear for any situation, right down to shoes, bags and other accessories.

When you take a little time to review what you currently own and work out what else you might require to update your look it is time well spent. You may find you don’t even need anything new when you look at your existing items from a new perspective. If you need help with this enlist a few friends and – over some bubbles…or tea if that’s more your ‘cup of tea’ –  get creative, try on things you never would have thought of putting together. Don’t be afraid to experiment…sometimes that’s when the best ideas appear!

The first 2 of the 4 R’s of wardrobe management: Retain | Repair/Revamp | Retire | Reinvest

One of the best things about taking a few hours to organise your wardrobe is that you will discover items that really are not working for you anymore whether its because your size has changed (and lets face it, we all go through body shape changes over time) or perhaps your needs are different now and the item just isn’t appropriate for your current lifestyle. Perhaps it’s just had its day… sometimes we just have to let go. If its outdated and/or just looking tired/stained/shabby then its time for it to retire.

1. RETAIN

You don’t have to work around it – it works for you. It stays in the wardrobe, but make it earn its keep! It must be able to coordinate with at least three other items in your wardrobe.

2. REPAIR/ REVAMP

Buttons missing, broken zipper, hems dropping. Too long or too short, a previous or hopeful size, dated in minor detail but in excellent condition overall. Take action! Send it to the repairers, apply your sewing kit, or find a great tailor/seamstress and have it altered or remodeled. Change the buttons, have it dyed, have the hem taken up/down, or lapels widened/narrowed. However, if you really can’t be bothered giving it the TLC it needs, then retire it.

Stay tuned for Part 2: how to retire (wardrobe items) gracefully and how to fill the gaps without spending a lot of time or money.

“If you’re not a brand, you’re a commodity” – and lets face it, who wants to be a commodity – constantly compared on price and features? I love this quote from Mireille Guiliano in her book Women, Work & The Art of Savoir Faire. She makes a great point. If you want to stand out for the right reasons and be noticed by your boss, your prospects or even that cute guy or girl you’ve had your eye on then you need to become a brand. I don’t mean a product like Nike or Sony, but it can be helpful to look at the strategies employed by successful mega brands. Strategies such as keep it simple (stupid) or KISS. Which means get your brand positioning right, create a memorable message (no more than 3 points) around your difference or uniqueness and then make sure you tell the world. And repeat, and repeat and repeat.

No-one said brand building was an overnight thing. There’s no instant gratification here folks. However, if you get your message (what you tell people about who you are and what you have to offer) and your packaging (how you present yourself physically and stylistically) right, then great things are possible. But… and this is a major limiting factor in most people’s ‘brand-building strategy’ you also need to be consistent in walking your talk and in looking the part. I am a strong believer in dress for the role you aspire to; both professionally and socially. It also helps to be gracious, give without thought of getting, treat others you would wish to be treated, and smile – just because you can.

Become memorable (for the right reasons) and your brand will flourish.

1. Get your message straight
2. Repeat it consistently and often
3. Back it up with your appearance and your behaviour

Do this and you will find you attract better opportunities, more attention for the right reason, and more of the things you desire.

First impressions are made with seconds, not minutes. Before you even open your mouth, someone has made a judgment or assumption about you and your capabilities.

• A sharp image inspires confidence, communicates leadership ability and helps to advance your prospects
• Every contact with customers, prospects or suppliers gives you the opportunity to enhance or dilute your personal brand

Here are a few simple tips to help you manage your personal brand for maximum results. They are categorised into those things that will enhance your brand and those that will dilute it. Keep these in mind when preparing for your next business (or social) occasion.

15 Brand Diluters

1. Ill fitting clothes: eg too revealing, too short, too tight, see-through, too big or gaping
2. No make-up, too much make-up out-dated make-up
3. Chipped nail polish, dirty or chewed fingernails
4. Bad breath or body odour
5. Dirty or scuffed shoes
6. Over-powering scent (ie perfume/aftershave)
7. Laddered hosiery or stockings with open-toe shoes
8. Untidy or dirty hair
9. Constant sniffing or throat clearing
10. Not returning phone calls
11. Turning up late
12. Answering or checking your phone during meetings
13. Over promising and under delivering
14. Not walking your talk
15. A weak or an overly firm handshake

15 Brand Enhancers

1. Smart, pressed and clean clothing – without stains, missing buttons, pulled threads, frayed cuffs etc
2. Clothing that fits you well, enhances your shape and minimises any flaws
3. Polished shoes and matching socks/ hosiery
4. Stylish pen, portfolio/notebook for meetings
5. Good posture…walk tall & sit up straight – good posture can take off 10 years and 5 kilos
6. Under-promising and over-delivering
7. Being punctual and calling immediately if something prevents from being so
8. Giving without thought of getting
9. Smile, and look people in the eye
10. Being consistent in your appearance and your actions
11. Remembering other peoples names
12. Confirming appointments the day before
13. Being authentic and believing in yourself
14. Saying thank you…often
15. Making someone feel good, just because you can

1. Mix a couple of dissolvable aspirin in with your shampoo as a detox wash for your hair to remove product buildup.
2. Aspirin (which contains salicylic acid found in those expensive brand name exfoliants) can also be used to great effect for an exfoliating mask or for those who suffer breakouts. Not recommended for sensitive skins though. Mix up a paste with 4-6 aspirin and a few drops of water and a couple of spoons of honey before applying to clean skin. Leave for 10-15 min and then massage gently before rinsing. Obviously if you are allergic to aspirin or honey this one is not for you.
3. For shiny, shiny hair, rinse your hair in champagne for highlighting blonde or beer for brunettes.
4. Whiten yellow-stained fingernails with lemon juice. Halve a lemon and squeeze some juice out so you can get your fingers inside. Leave them for 5 minutes and then rinse, dry and apply hand cream.
5. Instead of expensive bath salts try plain old Epsom Salts from the pharmacy for a muscle soothing soak. Add a few drops of your favourite essential oil (such as lavender) for a calming effect.
6. Break open a couple of Vitamin E oil or fish oil capsules and mix into your hair conditioner for an effective and instant hair treatment.
7. Rosewater (available in many delis and specialty food stores) makes a great non-drying facial toner for men or women. Apply with a cotton pad, after cleansing and before moisturising.
8. To make a great natural hair masque mix one egg with two tablespoons of olive oil. Smooth the mixture evenly throughout your hair and then cover with a shower cap or plastic wrap. Allow the mixture to remain on hair for ten minutes and then rinse thoroughly. The protein and amino acids in the egg will add strength and shine to your hair while the olive oil will help to soften and condition dry hair.
9. Mix up a pot of Chamomile tea and when cooled pour into ice cube trays and freeze. When you need a quick eye pick-me-up for puffy or tired eyes. Wrap a couple of chamomile ice blocks in a face washer or 2-3 tissues and pat gently around your eyes.
10. A good treatment for oily skin and to minimise enlarged pores is to mix one tsp of tomato juice with a couple of drops of lime juice. Soak a cotton pad with the mixture and gently apply to skin. Leave for a few minutes then rinse with warm water. Tone (see Point 6) then moisturise.

For those lucky enough to be making an escape to warm and sunny locations, here are my top 10 travel packing tips to help take the stress out of getting away:

1. Use the 80/20 rule – pack 80% of items for your top half and 20% of items for the bottom. Limit yourself to 2-3 colours that work together and can be layered and combined in multiple ways to allow for day and evening needs. It’s simple to change the look with accessories such as scarves, jewellery and a change of shoes.
2. Transfer skin care, and toiletries (including sunscreen) into small cosmetic bottles/jars which you can pick up at the supermarket. Alternatively (unless you use specialist products) you can save space by picking these up at your destination. Put your toiletries bag into a plastic bag and secure the top before you pack it, that way if anything spills during your journey it is less likely to get into everything else. I use a large zip lock bag.
3. A small bag with a long strap that can be removed (or tucked inside) is great for outings and can double as an evening bag.
4. 1 or 2 scarves that mix and match with everything can also be used to hide a bad hair day or double as a belt.
5. A wrap, which is great for an extra layer of lightweight warmth and fantastic for on the plane.
6. Swimwear and a sarong (a stylish sarong can also be used as a wrap for evening).
7. A fold up beach/shopping bag for when you’re out and about or for those must-have holiday purchases.
8. Charger for phone, iPod, laptop etc plus conversion electrical plugs if required. These are often available at the airport but can be difficult to find if you’re going to an out of the way destination.
9. You can fit more in or save room for things you buy when you’re away if you roll anything that can be rolled up and then squeeze each item into gaps around bulky items such as shoes and toiletries.
10. Save room by wearing your bulkiest items (such as runners/jeans/jacket) on the plane.

And one more thing; not a packing tip but a good travel tip nonetheless. Scan/copy your passport, drivers licence, and credit cards and email them to yourself using an email account accessible at any internet cafe. That way if you do lose them you have easy access to proof of ID which will speed up the replacement process.

Bon voyage!

I was discussing makeup and corporate image with a client today she asked “What’s the rule for makeup in the workplace?”

My answer is there really are no ‘rules’ as long as your look is:

• Consistent – either do it all the time or don’t do it at all. If you appear one way some days and another on other days people will begin to suspect either that you haven’t quite ‘got it together’ or that you are careless with your appearance, which could lead them to assume you are careless in your work.
• Authentic to your lifestyle and personality – in other words, make sure the image you’re portraying is right for you. The time to experiment with bold new looks and personas is on the weekend when you can try out something different or a bit fun and see how your friends react. If you are naturally a more classic style then go for low-key tones and a simple but polished look. If you are very natural girl then perhaps just a tinted moisturiser and lip balm will be enough for you. If you incline to be a little more dramatic or innovative then you will generally feel comfortable with stronger colours and interesting textures.
• Complementary to your natural colouring – eg if your skin tone is cool and your eyes are brown, blue or grey then you would choose makeup colours to match such as blues, greys, greens, plums and berry colours that have a blue undertone; if your skin tone is warm, your hair is auburn, chestnut or brown and your eyes are hazel, green, or amber then you are better off with earthier tones to match.
• Appropriate to the situation – what might be appropriate for a sultry night out, eg smoky eyes and dramatic lips, is clearly not going to be appropriate for a day in the office. If you have to go from the office to an evening function or social engagement you can always reapply and ‘amp up the volume’ of your look fairly quickly after work. Simply apply a deeper shadow to your eyes, add an extra coat or two of mascara and a bolder, glossier lip colour and you’re done.

Its easy to establish a simple daily makeup routine that takes less than 10 minutes from start to finish and includes: primer, foundation, concealer, eye shadow, eye liner, mascara, blush and lip colour. If you aim to match or contrast your shadow with your eye colour then its easy to choose a few different shades of the same colour and layer them for a simple classic look or layer a little more for a bolder option. This way you will save time (and money) trying to match your makeup colours to your clothing each day.

If you are just starting out with makeup or if you are still rocking the same you look you did 10 or even 20 years ago, perhaps you’d benefit from a makeup refresher. There are plenty of makeup artists at department store makeup counters who will show you how to apply, what colours suit you best and will even give you a ‘paint by numbers’ face chart to take home so when you do it for yourself its easy to follow along step-by-step.

One final word on the subject of makeup – if you’re going to wear it, make sure you prep your skin beforehand (cleanse, tone and moisturise) don’t forget the sunscreen and remember always to remove it before going to bed to keep your skin (and your pillow cases) clean and fresh.

Part 2 in my guide to finding the best jeans for you in the quickest amount of time. Know what to look for and you will find the process a whole lot easier on your mental health and your wallet.

FLY/ZIPPER

The general rule of thumb for zippers or ‘fly’ length is to match the fly to the length of your hand, from the base of your palm to the tip of your longest finger. This is a mid-rise cut which is much more flattering to those with anything less than a washboard stomach. Low rise jeans are the cause of the hideous ‘muffin top’ (and the above mentioned ‘plumbers crack’). While very high waisted jeans although they come back into fashion every once in a while, are also not very flattering – they accentuate any added tummy bulk you might be carrying and give you a much more matronly figure.

FIT/CUT

If you have thin legs, no hips and a tiny bum then you can pretty much wear any cut of jeans you like, lucky you! Although the older you get, the less appropriate it is to wear a ‘skin-tight skinny’ even if you can. For the rest of us however, skinny jeans will just emphasis the thighs and bum, while a relaxed fit straight leg (look for one where the width of the hem is the same or close to the width of the thigh), a bootcut, wide-leg or even a gentle flare will help balance the hips and make legs look longer.

[TIP: An easy way to check for cut without having to try them on is to bring the cuff of the jean up to the thigh area and note whether it’s wider or narrower. If the cuff is narrower than the thigh the jean is tapered if it’s the same or wider the jean is straight, flare or bootcut].

LENGTH

Unless you are very tall it is likely that you will need to get your jeans hemmed to fit your height. Most retailers will do this for you for a small fee; alternatively there are quick alterations places in most major shopping malls that can take care of this for you. Have them measured for hemming while you are wearing the shoe you are most likely to wear with those jeans – ie if you wear flats more than heels, have them hemmed wearing flats but be aware they will look a little too short if you wear them with heels. If however you are a heels girl then the most flattering and leg elongating length is to have the jeans just skim the floor when you are wearing your heels. For a cute and fashionable look, you can always turn them up if you want to wear them with flats. Of course if you are hemming skinny jeans you will need to have them finish at the top of your foot regardless of heels or flats because they won’t fit over your foot and hang down to the floor anyway.

[TIP: If jeans are more than 6 inches too long it is likely they will not be a good fit for you elsewhere. The fabric allowance in the crotch and knee will have been designed for a much taller person, so you may want to consider finding the same jeans in a ‘petites’ range for better all round fit].

COLOUR/RINSE

A dark wash will always look smarter and more sophisticated than a light wash. A very stylish pair of dark wash jeans may even be suitable for wearing to work, either on ‘Dress-down Fridays’ or if you work in a more casual environment. Light wash jeans really are for weekends and very casual dressing. Darker washes (or rinses as they are sometimes called) will also visually slim your figure, as a lighter colour worn on the bottom half will draw attention to that area. Jeans with pre-lightened patches on the thigh or ‘whiskering’ around the crotch will always make you look larger than you are so steer clear.

Acid wash jeans were not flattering the first time around. If you wore them in the 80s, then you know better than to consider revising the look and if you are young enough that you are seeing this look for the first time, wear if you dare but be aware that when looking back on photos you may wish you hadn’t.

RISE
The waistband of your jeans should ‘smile’ in front and ‘frown’ in back. In the front, this ‘smile’ visually cuts your tummy in half, minimising any unwanted bulge and allowing your clothing to sit closer to your frame for a sleeker line. While the ‘frown’ in back ensures underwear does not show.” No-one wants to see your G-string and we all know plumbers crack” is not a good look!

The larger the yoke – the v-shaped panel below the back waistband – the smaller your bum will appear. The yoke is designed to help your jeans shape to the curve of your body and to help lift and shape your behind.

POCKETS

You can also minimise the appearance of a ‘wide load’ by looking for jeans with larger back pockets – via the magic of optical illusion, the large the pockets the smaller your bum looks. If they are slanted out slightly – ie the inside top corner of the pocket is slightly higher than the outside top corner – this will also help visually shape and lift your bottom. For the same reasons, look for pockets that are slightly tapered, meaning wider at the top than at the bottom.

[TIP: Jeans with lots of detail or ‘bling’ on the back pockets will just draw attention to this area. Don’t say you weren’t warned!]

Slanted front pockets will help give the impression of an hourglass shape whereas straight across pockets can make your figure appear more square or ‘boxy’.